Thor Jonsson is one of the most committed surfers and photographers I have ever met. We hooked up in London around five years ago, when he was just back from three months feral in Madagascar. He had the eye of the tiger alright. This image (used as header) of Sam Bleakley during our Ireland trip reminds me of a Giacometti sculpture. It's typical of Thor's unique eye.
One wave. One man. Existential alone-ness in a watery universe. A huge talent.